Wednesday, January 19, 2005

Long Way's Journey in through Chennai

(Ok, cheezy literary reference for those of you who can appreciate it. Actually, I'm not really a fan of Eugene O'Neil anymore. He's too damn depressing). Well, it's been a long journey inward the whole time, in any case.

Indeed, I have been slowly making the journey back, so you'll not have to worry about losing me to India for another year, as so often happens with the backpackers who come soul-searching here. Anyway, my flight's scheduled for Feb. 3, so I'm still here and am still doing what I need to. But I've been mentally preparing to wrap up my trip and come back to the bay-- I notice myself thinking more and more about the bay and all of you dear ones shivering in the miserable fog and rain.... haha, just teasing.

To tell the truth, I think my body's actually craving that fog and rain, not to mention the comforts of home. My system's much confused, which is partly why, I think I've been so sick. Of course, a lot of it is also adjustment. One must learn, down here in the south (and I've mostly been in the tropical humid areas) that you do most of your stuff during the early mornings and evenings after the sun goes down. And that you take several showers during the day, and take daytime naps. Little things I forget (silly me, even after my experiences in southeast Asia). In any case, my system has also been feeling worn from being on the road so much and being pushed sylvia-style into a lot of (sometimes unncessary) discomfort. More to learn about self. Context is everything -- I can do as Indians do to some extent, I can do as other tourists do to some extent (which is hard to judge, because there are so many different modes of travel and hence, opinions . But ultimately, it has to be about what Sylvia must do, given her state of things.

Hence, I decided to splurge on an 2-tier A/C ticket for this long-ass train ride back up north. And going the stretch last night, from Coimbatore to Chennai (formerly Madras), I'm really glad I did. It was cool, calm, the toilets actually had little hanger-thingies and holes for the water from the flush tap to drain (my first sleeper train ride, which was a sleeper, had toilets that were partially flooded, making relieving yourself not quite something to look forward to)... it makes you think, why don't they just do those things for all the cars? But then, I've been learning a lot not to ask why and just accept it for what it is. Anyway, I was most ecstatic about the curtains, man! Oh, what a difference that little bit of privacy makes!

Anyway, as the way things turned out, I am here in Chennai on my way up to Bodh Gaya via Patna. My little dream of a week in Hampi (where the Vijayanagra ruins are) just couldn't happen this time around, as I want to be in Bodh Gaya for the Dalai Lama's prayer gathering on the 25th. I pray to Quanyin that I will make it through Bihar safely.

Chennai is actually pretty calm for a metropolis (I see what you mean, DG). I think it's because of the huge beach, where I went out this morning. Things are very obviously not as usual, though people are getting on with things. There were people doing morning exercizes, etc. I think one thing that struck me was how huge the beach is. It took me about 15 minutes going at a steady, leisurely pace to walk from the road out to the water. (Forgive me, but I'm REALLY bad with distances). The entire beach was still somewhat wet, and littered with clusters of broken boats and fishing nets. After all, the water had swallowed the whole beach area plus the road. What a visceral experience, to actually be here.


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