Saturday, September 17, 2005

photos: a refreshing train ride with friends

On our one-hour train ride from Ettimadai to Palghat, we brought out the camera and got playful.

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Deepak, ever a dreamer

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The great Shobhanah

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The stellar Kyizom,

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Nyima, ever inspiring

photos: Bodh Gaya

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The mahabodhi temple

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The bodhi tree

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Under the bodhi tree -- the covered seat of HH Dalai Lama

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Mahbodhi, detail

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Mahabodhi, detail

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The buddha, mahabodhi temple

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long life prayer gathering, mahabodhi

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Ani la

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Ani la and sylvia la

Friday, February 04, 2005

Culture Shock

Day after return to the US, woke up at 12 noon, in a daze, my surroundings are at once familiar and alien. It is good to be home, but my head's splitting from the shock; and in my tender moments of being fresh off the plane, I think:

*what happened to all the brown people everywhere? shoot, what happened to people at all? what happened to the cows & bicycles, dirt roads? what happened to all the noise?
*why does my room have 10 of everything i don't need? why's there so much clutter and not a lot of space?
*why are there so many cups and dishes? what's this plastic shit?
*why is everything elevated?
*why don't we just eat with our hands? why don't we eat on the floor? aw, why am i eating breakfast alone? why do we keep food refrigerated? shoot, it's frickin cold enough outside...
*why do we have to go far to buy food? shouldn't there be someone down the street selling it?
*what are all these papers with my name on it? how can you call the merging of two companies a marriage? *why do people talk so loud & so fast? and where are you going?
*whew! wireless internet is so fast!
*WHAT happened to all the temples and altars? what happened to all the colors?
*what happened to the trees & lillies that used to be in our front yard?
*the bananas aren't sweet!
*Dang! Our house is HUGE and it has so many rooms!
*we have a machine to wash our clothes? whoa!
*dang! i'm broke! and cingular wants HOW MUCH?! to use their cell phone?!
*Why does the acquisition of stuff make people happy?
*why do people lock their doors?

Hence do I begin the most challenging part of my journey.

Tuesday, February 01, 2005

Completing the Circle: Reflections from Dharamsala

AHHHHH! Only 2 more days before I'm on the plane again headed back to the US of A. This strange reality dawns on me more and more. But it feels right.

Meanwhile, I've been enjoying the tail end of my trip in India in Dharamsala. Crazy, a bit, to take a 11-hour train and then another 3-4 hours bus ride just to be up in the mountains for 5 days. But it has been perfect. We cancers, we like to make circles, and I felt I really needed to touch base and wrap up some things here before I left.

My decision was a right one. Up here in the mountains right now, where the weather is damn cold and the people are amazingly warm, and there's not much to do but reflect, you do face a lot. Everything has been coming together just right, even if in completely unexpected ways. That's been one of the miracles of life's ways, something I feel so blessed to have felt here in India.

I got here all dizzy and tired, as every time, on Saturday afternoon (the bus took like 4 hours to go 90 km!), and was greeted with a slightly changed Dharamsala. Snow was piled up everywhere. The shopkeepers had all shoveled piles to sides the previous few days, as Dharamsala saw the most snow it had in 13 years. A lot of the Tibetan folks were so happy, they said it reminded them of Tibet. I saw this one elder sculpting a stupa (a place to meditate or pray) out of snow, and children were rolling around in it. Auspicious, perhaps? H.H. The Dalai Lama (who's in residence here -- weee! It always makes everyone happy when he's here!) has said that 2005 / year of the wood cock, or wood bird in the Tibetan astrology, while not a good year for the world, will have some good things for Tibet. So maybe it is indeed a good sign. A much needed one, I think. I've been touched more and more by the various points of view I've been hearing from Tibetans. The precariousness of their political situation makes it all the clearer how important the long life prayer ceremony in Bodh Gaya was. Since then, a lot of Tibetans & Buddhists have been reciting mantras that basically say, "please stay with us longer." Indeed, may His Holiness be with us more, we need prophets/saints/spiritual leaders like him and Mata Amrita so much in these times.

Anyway, The people here have been so sweet. I wasn't here two hours before my friends Rocky, Bilal, and their new shop apprentice, a youngster named Munir, welcomed me back, helped me look around for a hotel, and invited me to dinner. Just their smiles, the happiness to see me, that was so visible, warmed my heart. The next day, I went to pay a visit to Nyima, who lives here in Dharamsala, but whom I had first met at Deepak and Shobhana's place down in Ettimadai. I missed her at her house at first, which was fine, because I ended up having conversations with some nuns at the nunnery next door. It still amazes me, 2 1/2 months later, how wonderful it is that people really try to communicate and reach out and get to know you, even when you don't speak each other's language. Nyima and I met on the street only about an hour later. I really like her energy. She's such a wonderful, sweet, girl, so kind, loving, solid, present. She prepared some blankets, a thermos and tea-fixings, and socks to help me stay warm and be comfortable. Bless her.

I had expected to spend some time seeing familiar faces and touching base here, but I had not expected to really make peace and prepare for the journey back in the way I have the past few days. This morning, I had the most unexpected blessing -- to accompany Nyima to see Lama Kirti Tsenshab Rinpoche, a high lama, and a very kind, reverent being. I received blessing from him and was able to ask questions. Wow. My question, which came out unexpectedly clear (it must have been brewing in my mind for some time, then), was to prepare me to go back to the States and the life I had left behind. How do I go back to a place that has so much stimulus for anger, righteousness, judgement, defensiveness, reaction (by this place, I mean not the US per se, but this place in my mind, being in the US at this time)? How can I go back, after having experienced the deep spirituality of India, the deep sense of love and nurturance, respect for life, the deep peace & deep disturbance, the complexity and chaos of so many worlds coexisting the way they do, the magic of the unexpected unfolding before you, the clear feeling that the universe is indeed looking out for you, giving you a good kick in the butt, touching you in the tenderest parts of your heart, guiding you, reminding you that you are human and that no matter what demons you have, not matter what pace you go at, no matter how limited your ability to get it, that you deserve the chance to better your existence and free yourself of suffering?

Of course, I did not ask all these questions. These have been in my mind and are mainly spelled out so you know what place I was in when I asked. The answer, too, was unexpected, and so simple that that I was really hit by its obviousness or, I should say, truth. But then, so much in the Dhamma is obvious and at the same time inacessible until we slowly begin to enlighten ourselves. But what a blessing it is when you have the accessibility to gurus, who are so removed from human ways, who are capable of things that really make the strictly scientific question. I was asking myself today, "wow, what did I do to deserve this experience, or that one, or so many of the blessings I've received while on this trip? I have been so lucky!" And the truth, which has nothing to do with ego, is that I don't deserve it more or less than anyone else. But I do deserve it, as all living beings deserve to be happy. And having opened myself up to these miracles, they are there.

Happy Year of the Wood Cock / Wood Bird everyone! Looking forward to greeting folks back home!

Monday, January 24, 2005

poem

Oh My God!
He exists!

Sunday, January 23, 2005

Bodh Gaya: Long Life Prayer Gathering


(photo from http://www.kagyuoffice.org/) Caption: His Holiness Dalai Lama, His Holiness Sakya Trinzen and His Holiness Gyalwang Karmapa and eminent leaders of all the main lineages of Tibet gathered in Bodhgaya to offer prayers for peace in the world. On January 25th, the assembled religious leaders made prayers

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Mahabodhi Temple
OH MY GOODNESS!
I have never seen so many Buddhist temples, monks, nuns, other worshippers, and things Buddha-related in such a small area.! It would take days just to visit all the temples here, and it's interesting to see Buddhism expressed in so many different cultures --there are Thai, Taiwanese, several Tibetan, Indian, Chinese, Vietnamese, Burmese, Bhutanese, Cambodian temples, not to mention the big temple, Maha Bodhi, which is Sri Lankan. I've really only gotten a chance to look around breifly, and in my alternately exhausted and excited states, I have only fragmented impressions of this place. The energy is so alive. You can't even stop too much, because there are people walking steadily everywhere, doing recitations.

And despite rumor, His Holiness the Dalai Lama arrived today, though who knows? No one really knows when he really arrives until he appears though. Security and all. I had really not understood when I set out for here what exactly this event is. It's a ceremony in which all the high lamas from around the world (and anyone else) have been called to join in prayer for long life for His Holiness. Everyone's getting prepared. Excitement is all.

Our company of 4 turned into 7 last night, when the elder nun in our group recognised a relative of hers, a young Tibetan who's been living in Spain for some years. He, his friend (who's from Nepal but will be coming to Berkeley to settle), and his uncle ( I believe) decided to travel with us, and so we had a lively party for our pilgrimage, which had us waiting for our train at Mughalsarai at 3:30 am. It's occurred to me just how fun travel in general, bur particularly Indian train rides, can be when you're in a group. You stress less because others are there to watch you back and your stuff and help you figure things out. And as typical of Asians, you pool your resoures together (e.g., berths) and make your trip very cozy indeed. One of my other favorite rides was the one-hour trip to Palghat with Deepak, Shobhana, Nyima and Kyizom. It was so relaxing and playful, which is obvious from the wonderful portraits.

Anyway, Bodh Gaya is gray and cold, with rain here and there. Makes me moody, but the brisk air is sobering. Looking forward to visiting a bunch of temples tomorrow and the prayer gathering,, as well as just walking around, getting lost in my personal prayers, walking off some of my baggage.

Saturday, January 22, 2005

Pilgrimages

Back in north India, and it couldn't be clearer. The cold is having me layer up again, two shirts, sweaters, shawls and other cold-weather accessories. At least I change much less (not sweating buckets anymore). Two days ago, I was sippin pineapple juice. Today, I found myself am sharing a meal of butter tea, chapati, "chopsey" (supposedly Chinese food), and mutton with other Bodh Gaya pilgrims(well, mutton was only for me and the other layperson in our group, a Tibetan elder from Canada).

So chances again twist things lightly, and so goes my adventure: on the long train ride to Patna, I was talking to my bunkmates, a young professional from Bhopal who had been in Chennai for 6 months, and two older guys who were doing engineering work on the electronic voting machines in Bihar. The discussion turned towards how horrible Bihar is and that they're just going there for work. They weren't worried, because they were going to get picked up by their company. Since I was to arrive during the day, it shouldn't be too much of a problem, but state elections were going to happen soon, and tensions were high.

I glimpsed a young nun going back and forth between the our car and the next and asked if she was going to Bodh Gaya. Yes, but through Varanassi, not Patna. (doh!). Anyway, after some time, the elder from Canada approached me and invited me to join them -- to disembark early, at Mughalsarai, which was close to Varanassi, and to head with them to Gaya the following day. Yes, I found the party I was hoping for. My bunkmates were really sweet -- and it seems to be this way in India, that they care enough to help you out with these little things -- they all chimed in that it was the best route to go.

Thus, I am today, in Saranath, the little woodsy suburb of Varanassi where the Lord Buddha gave his talk on the Eightfold path (hence the birthplace of Buddhism). Visited a few sites today. Tonight, we head for Gaya and onward.

Thursday, January 20, 2005

Route Map (back to the north)


See those looooong green lines? I'll never complain about driving 7 hours to LA again! Thank goodness for AC train cars!