Friday, November 26, 2004

Delhi: Madan and a ticket out

OK, main objectives, my calculating mind was saying, is to get some clothes, some sandals, and find a way out of here. All the while, taking care of this cough by staying hydrated, getting some rest, not losing my cool.

I'm making mistakes because I'm tired, I thought.

I met Madan as I was looking very much like a tourist, trying to get my oriention right from the map. He came up to me and asked if I needed help, very cheesy collar shirt and sweater on, like that was supposed to make his story more credible. But hey, I needed some guidance, didn't trust anyone to give me an honest answer, and didn't know how to take the autorickshaws (er, I was afraid), and he, as it turned out, told some good stories anyway. His story went that he was from Bodh Gaya and was used to seeing a lot of faces like mine around. Was I perhaps from Thailand? We sat down to tea. He had just flown into Delhi yesterday and what a large, busy, impersonal city it was. All he wanted was to make some friends. Why not? I thought, and played along. But that wonderful acceptance was starting to happen, relaxation into the situation and just enjoying the tea and story. I'm sure part of it was true, how he had 3 sisters, two of whom were unmarried. The situation wasn't too bad either. I guess, if he wanted to just hook up his buddies or the folks he worked for, they were as good as any, since I was completely lost anyway.

After all, even my hotel was trying to scam me again and again. Had already received a call to talk to the hotel's travel agent. When I went with the guy, he insisted that if I wanted to get out of Delhi, I'd have to book a train ticket through him right away, because they were filling up (believe me, I REALLY wanted to get out... anywhere). To Haridwar, he insisted, the four hour train ride would cost Rs3200. That's a ridiculous $75.

So by the time Madan took me to his guy, I was already fed up and insitent upon just getting the basic info to do things my own way. Madan's guy tried to sell me a plane ticket to Srinagar in Kashmir. Wasn't it inadvisable to go there? I asked, to which he pulled out a book of pics and called up another tourist to talk to me about it. Wow, yes, after the shock I'd been through, spending 7 days on a plushly furnished houseboat did look very appealing. But that's not what I came for, to be padded like that, and no, I simply didn't have the extra $250 in my budget.

Ok, I know I was really concerned with money the first few days... all the constant scamming does something to you, makes you a controlling, arguing, hustling bitch, and then you come out of it a lot smarter.

Anyway, I did buy some expensive clothes through Madan's connections (Funny, he still was playing "oh, i just discovered this great store yesterday"). And dinner on the rooftop of his friend's hotel was not bad, the first calm moment I had, where I was able to see so much of Paharganj's rooftops, men standing out there whistling to the birds. And food, finally. I did Madan's portrait, was good to do some sketching. And listened to his pitch a little about needing money for his sisters to get married. I did feel for the guy. But didn't meet him the next day, as he'd hoped I would.

Next day, I made my way to the New Delhi train station, which had a foreign tourists bureau. Got a ticket for Rs110 to Haridwar same day. My goodness!

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